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Introduction to ocean dynamics

Meet the two great fluids that shape our climate, and discover why the ocean moves and on what scales.

This first lecture sets the scene for the whole week. Nicholas Hall introduces the ocean as one of two thin envelopes of fluid – the ocean and the atmosphere – whose motion regulates our climate by moving heat from the equator toward the poles.

As you watch, you’ll explore:

  • The ocean and the atmosphere – how these two fluids resemble each other, and the key differences between them (density, a free surface, salt, and what drives each one)
  • Energy in the climate system – how the imbalance between incoming sunlight and outgoing radiation sets the whole system in motion
  • The causes of oceanic motion – the wind, the Sun, the Moon, and the Earth itself
  • Spatial and temporal scales – the enormous range of sizes and timescales on which the ocean moves, from turbulent mixing to basin-wide gyres
  • Time variation in a fluid – how we describe change as we follow the flow
  • Pressure and depth – why pressure rises so quickly beneath the surface, and how it balances gravity

The aim is physical intuition, not mathematics: a feel for why the ocean moves. Keep that in mind as you watch – everything else this week builds on these foundations.

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Fundamentals of Ocean Forecasting

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